D. and I had the honour of being invited to one of the shows at Gindi TLV Fashion Week – Tamara Salem’s show.
Tamara Salem’s show was a festive display of soft geometric line. Yes, Tamara makes this oxymoron possible. The garments exhibit an airy distance from the body with ample delicate chic exposing some tender curves. But the strength of the collection, and of the designer’s hand writing, is the elegant, tranquil sophistication of the items. A few of the items are modular, and transformed on the cat walk from a voluminous dress to a long and lofty dress.
This reminded me of Tamara Salem’s patented “Morf” dress that can be worn in 12 different ways!
We also loved the monochrome colour scheme and the contrast between the soft draping fabric and the more constructed parts, which had an elastic and ‘bouncy’ quality.
One dress stood out from among the colour palatte; it started as voluminous dress in grey and red, then transformed and opened to a long red dress. Its bright colour was emphasised by the red lips in the video screened at the back – another major player in the show.
We were Dmitriy Zholkovskiy’s guests. Dmitriy is a fashion designer and pattern maker, and is part of Tamara’s creative team – many times they are called ‘little hands’, the hidden heroes of fashion shows. And I know he put his heart into this work!
ד’ ואני זכינו להיות האורחים של דמיטרי ז’ולוקבסקי, מעצב אופנה ותדמיתן אשר עובד עם תמרה סלם
דמיטרי הוא חבר קרוב, אנחנו מכירים מהימים שהיינו שכנים ובעיקר היינו עושים שטויות. כבר אז הקו היצירתי שלו היה ברור לי: דיוק והקפדה מיירביים, מקצוענות ורעיונות מקוריים, שילוב בין גזרות מדוייקות ומושלמות עם אלמנט ‘מפתיע’ כלשהו, כמו שוליים פרומיים, קו גיזרה יוצא דופן ועוד
כל אלה ועוד ניכרו בתצוגה של תמרה סלם, הקולקציה אופיינה במראה נקי, מוקפד, מאופק ועם זאת עוצמתי. חלק מהפריטים הפגינו מבניות תלת מימדית או מרחק “אווירירי” מהגוף, מרחק אשר יוצר תחושת חופש ותנועה. פריטים נוספים ניתנים ללבישה במספר צורות, ועברו טרנספורמציה לנגד עיננו על הבמה. בלטה במיוחד שימלה בעלת נפח גדול, עמוסה בקיפולים ובשכבות, צבעה אפור ומבינות הקפלים מבצבץ צבע אדום. בפעולה אחת קלה ומהירה נפתח ומשתחרר המבנה המורכב והופך לשמלה ארוכה, נוזלת, זורמת בצבע אדום עז. הצבע האדום הועצם בוידאו שהוקרן ברקע. למעשה הוידאו היה חלק מקסם האווירה והתצוגה
העיסוק של תמרה סלם בבגדים אשר ניתנים ללבישה במספר אופנים איננו חדש. אני מרגישה שזה מעין “מחקר” מתמשך שלה. יחד עם הצבעוניות המונוכרומטית, החומריות ושילוב אלמנטים ‘רומנטיים’ יותר כגון פפיונים ותחרה, נוצרה קולקציה מרתקת ומרשימה
התצוגה הסתיימה. ד’ ואני עשינו עוד סיבוב קטן ליד השטיח האדום ומשם יצאנו חזרה לרחוב, לאבק ולאפור. נשמע מוכר קצת השילוב, לא?:)
וזה מזכיר לי שאפשר לקרוא על תצוגת הבוגרים של שנקר כאן
למעלה: בתצוגת האופנה של תמרה סלם, דמיטרי נועל אדידס
Above: Dmitriy Zholkovskiy and Tamara Salem a few minutes after the show ended
Spotted at TLV Fashion Week
And I see the ‘anonymous’ guests as heroes too 🙂 here are some of the shoes they wore to the show:
Above: These shoes were bought in perhaps the favourite shop in the world: “My Mum bought them for me in Berlin” she told me 🙂 I also love the combination with the trousers.
Above: “Wow, it’s great you are taking my picture! My Mum didn’t like these shoes, and now I can tell her that you do!”
Seems like Zara and Mums have a special corner in this post 🙂
בדרך החוצה אחרי התצוגה פגשנו את עדו רקנטי, מעצב אופנה. “אלה נעלי החתונה שלי” הוא מספר לד’ ולי, “הן של חברת ויאליס, ואחרי החתונה צבעתי אותן לשחור”, ממשיך עדו. אז איך זה שהתפר נשאר לבן?? שואל ד’.” כי החוט סינטטי, בניגוד לגפה מעור!” וזה מזכיר לי את העיצוב והעבודה על נעליים להצגה נעליים
US. D’ and I
All pictures were taken by me and by Deva Melman.
Happy you are here, always welcome to follow my step
מה צדות עיניי: זוג גרביים מכסים מגפיים. הכי הגיוני בעצם
מי הנועלת? דנה, אשר מספרת שהחורף “פתאום” התחשק לה והרגיש לה ללבוש הרבה שחור. והמגפיים שלה חומים, והן הרגישו לה בהירים, או בוהקים, או לא קשורים לכל השחור האפל הזה
אז היא עשתה מעשה פשוט, וכיסתה אותם
בדרך הזו אני יכולה לשנות ולהחליף את הצבע והמראה של המגף כמה שאני רוצה, בקלות. הוא יותר זורם, הוא אחר ומשתנה – היא מספרת. ומי היא דנה? דנה פורר, שחקנית ומנהלת האנסמבל של תאטרון המסתורין. כן כן , יש דבר כזה. גם אני גיליתי זאת רק בזמן שיחה על גרביים
בכל אופן, תאטרון המסתורין מופיע בפינות האפלות והנסתרות של התחנה המרכזית. דנה מספרת שהמופע משלב השפעות מתרבויות רבות, והאתר שלהם מגלה לי שהמופע מבוסס גם על טקסטים מיסטיים וקלאסיים
אז אם מסתורין סרוג אל תוך מיסטיקה חתוכה על גבי מגף עושה לכם את זה – בואו. אני הולכת להיות שם. עם גרביים, מגפיים וכמה פינות מסתוריות בלב ובנשמה
When: a short while ago, shortly after I moved to a new home
Where: on a bus ride, on my way home to Jaffa
What about?? I spot Dana wearing shoes covered by socks.
“I created these sock-covers for shoes because this winter I’ve been wearing a lot of black, and just felt the brown boots didn’t match. The sock-cover allows me to change the colour of the boot as I want whenever I feel like it”.
“At the beginning the socks covered the entire front and the toe cap, but then they tore after a short while, so I just cut them open at the toes”
What did I like about it? I love improvisation, and I love to spot items personalised by their users. Especially when the personalisation is about the construction, not only decoration.
So who is Dana? She tells me she performs in a theater group called “The Mysterious Theater”, or in Hebrew “Mystorin”, which sounds like a kind of magical tour to me.
Their website states they “combine mystical and classic texts with a variety of performing arts”, they perform in the Tel-Aviv Central Bus station which is a maze with many hidden corridors and underground halls. Yep, a little scary, and mysterious too 🙂
It’s a step which entails a change because I no longer live alone, but with my partner. The house is old and beautiful but most of all is starting to feel like home, cozy and intriguing.
I think there will be many more stories to tell about the house, about Jaffa – which is where we live – and about my partner’s shoe collection which is quite remarkable and expresses a unique and interesting taste 🙂
The night before the move i went out with Avivit, a good friend who runs a small second-hand clothing business and also mends and alters many of the clothes. “It’s like a farewell party for you before moving into your new life” Avivit declared with a smile.
Avivit has this incredible eye for finding hidden gems in the street. I mean if I see a pile of clothes someone left on a street corner I would probably hesitate or feel embarrassed to start looking through it. But with Avivit all the magic happens. This way we found a pile full of fun and stylish stuff. A pile which we soon discovered was left outside by a really cool and stylish couple, which also sew some of their clothes.
What do I spot: a pair of shoes that have this majestic burgundy colour and a matching ornament too. Not the kind of shoes I see around me every morning…. I had to check this out! Wondering if they are fancy ‘leftovers’ from last night New Year’s partying 🙂
Who’s wearing them: Emma Raz, senior manager at AppNext – a mobile discovery platform. This pair was bought in China last April (“wow, before Brexit and Trump” I think to myself….).
“I travel quite often” Emma tells me, “mainly for work, so each item I’m wearing is from a different place in the world”
I also like: the semi-obscured tattoo behind the transparent sock, and the hint, or glimpse of an ankle bracelet.
Looking back at these picturesthis evening
I wish I had snapped more pictures to capture Emma’s style; all items and their blend seemed really stylish and interesting.
It’s the blend, or mix which makes up a good story, or great style. A thought about a global world changing so rapidly.
And for 2017 which started today I wish myself to continue meeting interesting people during 2017, around the corner and also while travelling to many places in the world 🙂
Wishing you all a happy and fabulous 2017! May a wish or two come true.
Happy you are here, you are welcome to follow my steps. Sometimes I even take the bus 😉
The route we took: Paulos st. , Church of St. Gabriel , Mary’s well square.
Attractions: The largest Christmas tree in the Middle East. Yep, a phallic symbol in the name of God 🙂
Nazareth was decorated, festive and crowded:)
We succeeded in missing the parade that took place earlier that afternoon, and we blended in the crowd strolling along the city center, visiting Gabriel’s church and stopping by a few of the many eateries in Nazareth.
Our tip: one thing we did well for sure – we parked about 2 km from the center. We avoided horrendous traffic jams and enjoyed the walk.
Tip no. 2: wear comfortable shoes 🙂
What did we wear?
He: shoes by Reply.
And I: shoes by Pons Quintana. I’ve had them now for I guess about 10 years and they are still rocking.
Above: boots by Pons Quintana with an elongated last/toe cup
Above: shoes by Reply, I think they’ve traveled the world.
The visit to Nazareth
Reminded me of my neighbour, a 5 year old refugee from Africa, who he and his family were lucky enough to leave and arrive in Israel when it was still easier (but not easy) to cross the borders and arrive in a safer place than the country they left.
A few weeks ago I saw him and his sister outside their house, dressed up and looking happy and excited. He ran up to me to tell me that “our God has a celebration today!”.
The young kid had the right intuition many grown ups lack: God is personal and if you choose to seek his presence he (or she?!:) probably will be found in your heart, or your thoughts.
Because while God might be divine,
Religion seems to suffer from many earthly flaws….
So I think tip no. 3would be: follow your personal Jesus 🙂
Above: patterns are everywhere
Above: an ancient church in 2016 – the cross is hidden within a screw 😉
Above: an upside down JBL included, the divine and earthly intermix
Above: Santa Claus is heading to Heaven?:) Helium balloons can be great fun
Above: ancient art in today’s life, air-co and a clock are included
Above: this reminded me of ‘The Creating of Adam’ by Michelangleo in the Sistine Chapel
Above: painting located above the water and well. Picture by Deva Melman
Above: God’s pocket money?:)
Above: detail of a painting, sandals.
Above: Moses removing his sandals at the burning bush.
In Jewish religion shoes are considered to be a barrier, a divider between man and God.
Above: Adam and Eve, and the divine light with some bars….?:) Picture by Deva Melman
Walking along the side streets
We could experience more angles to the city
Above: painted on the wall surrounding the Baptist church in Nazareth
Above: a jewelry window tells a story. Mixed symbols. ‘Noyser Jewlry’ at Ha’Galil st. no 22 in Nazareth
Above: a must visit bakery in Nazareth – ‘Mahroum’ sweets. I loved the yellowish Kanafeh with pistachio mix, and I personally prefer it without the sweet sauce usually poured on top. This way the sweetness is inviting and soft. The halva too was excellent.
Above: we didn’t check this place out but it seemed inviting. Right by the square and the church.
Above: Picture by Deva Melman
This post was written yesterday, by the time I finished it George Michael passed away. Another great artist who left this world during 2016. I loved the music he made, as a solo artist or together with Andrew Ridgeley. I wish you to rest in peace, feeling and being closer to your personal Jesus.
Happy you stopped by to visit Uncoded Steps. You are welcome to follow more of my steps
Its’ not that I chose them – says Gillian who wears shoes size 35, and constantly finds creative solutions to find shoes that fit.
Who: Gillian Golan – or Gilli as most people call her – a close friend, business consultant for design focused businesses, senior lecturer in Shenkar college, lecturer and teacher of “From creating to selling – from designing to marketing” courses. The course provides tools (=knowledge) for marketing and selling in the commercial market for designers and creative people.
Me: so what is a shoe for you?
Gillian: where will I find it, where are there shoes that fit me?? In one word – a mission!
Above: Gillian’s dream shoes. Why?? Read on to hear the story 🙂 were bought in Triest, Italy, summer 2016
Me: a favorite shoe, you really love
Gillian: it changes. Every time I have a shoe I’m crazy about for a while. I fall in love with shoes that fit me perfectly, and also look good on me.
The perfect fit is really important because it is so hard for me to find shoes that suit me.
It’s not only about the size – from the start so few shoes are made in size 35 – in addition there are whole categories that I know in advance will not fit me; the sandals and shoes that wrap around the shin are almost always too wide for me. all the gladiator sandals for example that were so fashionable this summer – I couldn’t buy even one of them.
So the challenge is double – first to find a shoe size 35. And then also find a shoe that fits in width and proportions.
Another thing I realized throughout the years is that many times when I do find size 35 shoes, they are more a mature style, addressing older women. Many times they are fancy evening shoes, and this is not my personal style.
Me: and what about custom-made shoes Gilli: I tried but it wasn’t a successful experience. The result wasn’t comfortable. We changed, fixed them but it didn’t work. Since then I travel the world in the search of the perfect shoe, hoping to find my dream shop – full of size 35 shoes.
Me: describe the process of buying shoes
Gilli: I stroll down a street, suddenly my eye catches a shoe shop with all its glory. The shoes are alluring, I want to reach out to them but I am reserved; I first check to see if they have them in size 35. Usually I don’t even have to ask the staff because the shops exhibit the smallest size they have available – if size 35 isn’t presented in the story, they probably will not have it in stock.
So I mapped shops that sell size 35 shoes. There was an excellent shop in Amsterdam called Cinderella but it seems it closed. Another excellent shop is Giordano’s in New York (details below). In this shop size 35 is even considered to be a big size. The shoes are not that cheap, their price is about 200-300$, but worth the cost. they hold designer’s samples, samples which are made in small sizes to look attractive to buyers.
Me, thinking to mysesf: this touches a sensitive issue; the masculine fantasy for “small women”, something we’ve been moving away from during the past decades.
But let’s leave this for now because people should feel comfortable with fashion and the designed items that surround us, no matter what your size is.
Above: shoes designed by Liz Claiborne. Materials: leather and microfiber. I especially loved the upper’s shape and cut of shapes.
Above: shoes by Noya. Materials: leather, textile
Gilli continues: (she has a lot to say about size 35!:) because it’s so hard for me to find shoes, it turns out I have a lot of shoes; when I find shoes that fit me I buy them right away! And there’s a big contrast; I either have expensive shoes that cost 200$ or more, or cheap shoes bought for 10$. All the mid range, the “regular” shoes most women buy – are out of range for me. it’s as if I am transparent for the designers and planners of the commercial production lines.
Above: shoes by American Eagle. Materials: synthetic. Maybe: the lining is leather, couldn’t identify it for sure.
Above: shoes by Fione. Gilli loves them so much she even had the back strap repaired by a cobbler.
More places Gilli buys shoes:
Lord and Taylors, a stylish chain of shops, I try to buy there during sales.
Another tip, relevant for the USA but not only: when I buy a few pairs at a time I receive a big discount at the counter, 30%-40%. They have enormous shoe shops, DSW for example. The shoe boxes of each style are stacked one on top of the other and at the top of each pile the shoe is exhibited, as if saying “look at me” and telling which style is in the boxes below. The shoe boxes with very small or large sizes are marked with a circle, this way I can easly identify a shoe box with size 35. When I enter the shop I don’t even look at the shoes, I look only at the boxes and when I find a shoe box size 35 I look up to see at the shoe. This way I bought the red sandal, I looked up and said “wow, a red sandal, ok, that’s cool”, I wasn’t even looking for such a sandal. This way I’m constantly surprised by the shoes I buy.
Above: followed the magic dots; a red sandal size 35. Materials: leather upper, synthetic insock, wedge coated by cord.
Another brand that has women’s shoes size 35 is Clarks, but I can find this size only when travelling abroad
In Israel I usually buy in Aldo, Zara kids and the local brand Twenty Four Seven.
Aldo – my personal style is slightly different than theirs, but I can still find in Aldo shoes I like, I try to wait to the sales season.
In Zara kids I usually buy their flat pump shoes, their sizes are a little large, so sometimes I find myself buying size 34.
Above: sandals by Twenty Four Seven. Materials: leather, studs, injected polyurethane outsole.
A thought: the sandal is made with hardly any stitching, other than one exception – a stitch at the back strap. This reduces the cost of production – the labor work is expensive – and this makes me wonder why they didn’t find another solution besides stitching.
Above: one single stitch; it’s not clear to me why they didn’t use a stud for connecting.
More shops worldwide: in south east Asia it is easy for me to buy. In Macy’s I usually buy more than one pair at a time. I can spend 3-4 hours searching but know that as far as shoes are concerned I can enjoy some peace and quiet for a year or so.
Me: A shoe you dream about, long for
Gilli: at the end of the day I fantasize about something simple – a classic knee-high boot that will fit perfectly, have a low heel about 4 cm high, a boot made of high quality materials that I could enjoy wearing for a few seasons.
Me: a story about a shoe which is special to you
Gilli: a few months ago I was a guest at the ITS competition which takes place once a year in Trieste, Italy. I accompanied one of the participants in the competition (name of —-) , who also won first prize.
We arrived in Trieste and I felt like I want to find the perfect shoe that would match the skirt and shirt I bought the day before – finding clothes that fit me is also not easy! I knew the chances were not high; to find shoes that match the clothes and match me too in a short time. And then, against all odds it happened! I found pump shoes in a colour matching the shirt. At the end of the day I found 4 items in 4 different shops, all matching one another and matching me too!
Gilli: and this is the time for another tip: it’s easier to find shoes size 35 in south of Italy than in the north, where people are taller.
Above: Shoes by La Nouvelle, jacket by Pimkie, Skirt by Motivi
Above: Gilli’s lucky shoes, bought in Trieste, Italy
Gilli: I remember there was a fashion for sneakers with colour outsole, these were shoes by Gali, and mygrandfather who had a factory for rubber produced the outsoles for them.
Me: your grandfather had a rubber factory?? Where, when, what was its name?
Gilli: Tagel factory, in Akko
Me: you are truly a family of producers,
Gilli: yes… eventually my grandfather sold the factory to one of the large companies in Israel. I have another memory: sandals with a rubber outsole through which you could thread laces that tied around the foot and leg, you could switch between the laces and choose your favorite colour.
Me, thinking to myself: it is like the freedom Gilli would like to have today choosing shoes…
Above: red shoes bought in Payless – follow the dots on the boxes 🙂
Above: girl’s sandal we designed in Nimrod shoes in 2012, with a changeable lace
Me: and childhood reminds me of your daughters…
Gilli: right now they are both size 35, and I hope their shoe size will grow, and they don’t stay at size 35 for two reasons
Me: I can guess why..
Gilli: first, so they will not need to cope with this “nightmare” of size 35 in a world which produces most of its shoes from size 36 upwards and…
Me: so they will not wear your shoes!
Gilli: exactly 🙂
Above: a photo I shot of Gilli during her fist pregnancy, at the beginning of our friendship – today her daughter is 15 and wears shoes size 35 🙂 This photo was our first photo collaboration, many more to follow
So after my visit to the “house of 35” with three beautiful and creative women I was left with thoughts about small women who are actually big and meaningful in so many aspects
Fashion designer and senior lecturer at the fashion department in Shenkar Design Academy
It took Idit seven years to process her visit to the Bergdorf Goodman shoe salon into a shoe which expresses the contradictions she experienced during the visit
Bergdorf Goodman which is located in New York’s 5th Avenue in is an exclusive shrine for stylish shoes, which takes its visitors back in time into another dimension
The Salon, established in the 1940s, keeps its original interior design to this day. It’s as if time has been froze in the shrine, yet the desire and lust for beauty are relevant and dramatic as always, since ever
I wear only flat comfortable shoes” says Idit, and although I am aware that women are bewitched by stilettos, still that moment standing in front of a divine pair of Louboutin shoes caught me by surprise. I realized I desired those shoes in a manner I could not anticipate or control
I tried them on, I could barely walk in them yet I was still engulfed by the desire for the shoes
I think women relate to comfort and desire together. Each person creates the mix, the personal answer that suits her – how much am I prepared to suffer for this beauty? Some are prepared to suffer very little, if at all, and there are those who will wear the coveted shoes despite their being uncomfortable – because the shoes answer that same desire that I, too, experienced that morning.
We strive to be as healthy as can be, yet in some conditions we choose a controlled portion of disability – so we can address other motives we have such as being perceived by others as sexy and desirable, to elongate the body and to add a sense of tension to it; to create excitement in our body and physical aspect.
Idit wanted to track down this polarity – the painful and the exclusive in a summit meeting. The stiletto-crutches that she presented in the Cinderella Syndrome exhibition touch on the subject using black humour with gold decoration: a type of disability but madly desirable.
Above: computer rending of the stiletto-crutches, designed by Idit Barak
The Stiletto–crutches relate to characteristics of Loubooutin’s and are best known for: the red outole bottom. The stiletto-crutches are hand-stitched and are made of shiny black leather, its insides are painted in bright red, the butterfly shaped closures are coated with 24K gold.
Stiletto-crutches designed by Idit Barak, gold butterflies fasten a black corner. Photo: Shelley Lewis at the exhibition
The original crutches were taken apart and reassembled; its lower part is made of a ‘strange’ piece of wood which was connected to the upper part of the ‘real’ pair of crutches. The bottom of the crutches is extremely small in relation to the crutches: only 12 m”m width and length. A real heel top, as used in the footwear industry, is glued to the crutches’ base.
The creating of the stiletto-crutches and its transformation from crutches to a stiletto shoe was done in collaboration with the industrial designer Yaniv Kadosh. The result is an item which will challenge our perception of comfort, disability and sex appeal.
First sketch, by Idit Barak
The making of the stiletto-crutches, in collaboration with industrial designer Yaniv Kadosh
Pink DNA, glittery included
Shelley: were you familiar with the term “Cinderella Syndrome” before the exhibition?
Idit: yes, the natural tension between girls and women, and the tension between femininity as perceived by a chauvinist or by a feminist interests me. Which of these characters exist inside of me, and where does the transformation between the different characters occur?
Idit: I am feminist, we shattered the roles which are supposedly relegated to women or men. Today, we the women, are independent and responsible for our lives, yet we have this place inside of us which seems at times to have been programmed to dream of the prince who will come and treat you exactly as you imagine
This raises question within me as a woman, as a mother, as a teacher at Shenkar
“On the other hand” Idit continues “maybe this strong craving to be “like a princess” is beyond education and the surrounding influence on us”.
“I wear only black clothes, and when my daughter was a baby I dressed her only in monochromatic clothes. Yet when she was three years old she came up to me and demanded to wear only “dresses that swirl around me” and told me her favorite colour was pink”.
“Today she’s back wearing black, which makes me feel like a proud mum”, Idit laughs.
Sandals I designed for Nimrod shoes in 2012. Pattern making by Nina Avidan
Shelley: when I worked for Nimrod Children’s Footwear Company, we used to laugh that it’s probably inevitable, perhaps girls are born with a gene which say “pink and glittery”.
Idit: It really is in the DNA in some way or other. Sometimes we can fight it and sometimes we can allow ourselves to be little girls who dream of being big
Big or small, disability or comfort, sex appeal or dream-like sweetness – what is the stiletto shoe?
The following interview invites us to dive into this question and come up with some ambiguous and enlightening resolutions.
Orit Freilich – X-Ray shoes
Orit Freilich, a senior lecturer in the fashion department at Shenkar Academy – exhibited in Cinderella Syndrome an X-ray photo of a pair of shoes she bought in 2006. The photo is accompanied by a soundtrack of her granddaughter singing a children’s song about Cinderella.
The shoes x-rayed by Orit are designed by Maison Martin Margiela, and are part of his series of Replica shoes; Margiela reproduced shoes and perfumes that originally were made in the 1980’s.
Orit: the x-rayimage is silent evidence of the pain embodied in wearing shoes with heels. The nails are an explicit expression of this discomfort.
Above: Orit Freilich’s granddaughter sings in the sweetest voice ever: “My dear Cinderella loves me, we will soon marry and have a baby boy”.
And the picture above the song: the X-ray image Orit presented in Cinderella Syndrome. Is the shoe being taken apart, or is going through a healing process? And who is the patient? Is it the shoe with distorted nails, or is us, constantly craving for additional elevation and heights?
Orit: The dichotomy between the visual pain seen in the x-ray screen, and the sweet voice of my granddaughter, who is the voice for all the girls who haven’t yet worn shoes with heels – confronts the mature women with what lies ahead for their daughters, while keeping silent about it.
The shoes X-Rayed by Orit, were designed by Maison Martin Margiela, and are part of his Replica series. In this series Margiela remade vintage shoes he had in his private archive. The replicas search for past identities of shoes, and raise questions such as what is authenticity today and what is our relationship with the past?
Replica in its pure essence is the remaking of something from the past, usually considered by us as “original” and “authentic”. During theremaking, the replica becomes an original of its own, and so on and so on.
“I chose a shoe from the Replica series” says Orit during our interview, “because it resontates the remaking, the reproduction of past ideas and objects. Margiella’s shoe recreates a shoe exactly as a woman waiting for her prince recreates the idea of marriage, and the promise of salvation embedded within them –it’s a ceremony which has been repeated again and again since the first couple who married”.
Picture above: waiting for the prince? A Barbie doll between two shoes designed by Ann Demeulemeester, in their original box. An X-ray picture by Orit Freilich.
In the song accompanying the image, my granddaughter sings “My dear Cinderella loves me …” these are actually the words which are supposed to be sung by the man, not the woman.
Shelley: by doing so, the woman gains a hold on the man’s perspective of her, this same image he has of her which affects so many women in such a profound way – am I desirable, am I attractive, what is my value? – And by this she restores control of her self image.
Orit: yes, the song has many meanings, exactly as the photo enabled me to expose hidden components, and take a closer look at the shoe. It’s the same as when the doctor examines our X-ray photo, looking for signs and clues in order to have a better understanding of his, or her patient. I, for example, discovered that the nails in my shoes were crooked, I don’t know if they were like that from the start, or they if were deformed by walking in them. We reveal a concealed layer while at the same time more questions arise.
In the photo above: Margiela’s Replica shoes; do nails have a hidden language? An X-Ray photo by Orit Freilich
In the photo above: Margiela’s Replica shoes; do nails have a hidden language? An X-Ray photo by Orit Freilich
The interview ended. I was left with thoughts about being exposed and indirect at the same time. Could these two live together?
On the one hand Orit invited us to have a close and introspective look at the shoe, yet the shoe remains mysterious and unknown.
So if you are curious to see the shoe in its entirety, you are welcome to have a look at the bottom of this post, where you can see the shoe posted upside down.
And why is it upside down you might be asking yourselves?
Well, first because this is the nature of riddles, also because the following and last interview turns heels over head.
You can see more of Orit’s work in the upcoming DLD innovation festival on Sep-27, 2016. Orit’s work, titled “C.T. Scan of Cherub”, will include a video installation which will be screened onto the houses in Rothschild Blvd. Tel-Aviv. What kind of images will these be? Well, I guess you get the idea 🙂
The negative of the positive – Avigail Talmor
My phone converstation with Avigail Talmor, owner of the brand For Those Who Pray, took place while Avigail was seated in her studio overlooking the sea that stretches to the far horizon, hand stitching items for five of Comme Il Faut’s exclusive shops.
“I hand stitch all the objects I make” says Avigail. “From each style I make 15-20 units, and then I move on to the next style. Each style is produced for a specific period and in small quantities. Besides my 5-6 best sellers, which I produce again and again.”
“I don’t produce collections” Avigail continues, “I am part of the slow fashion movement”.
A clutch made of left-over leather, using special techniques. When? Probably right now. In one week from now it might not be available in stock…
“The objects I design I make” – and Avigail calls her jewelry ‘objects’ because it allows the items to have a wider definition, without identifying with a specific part of the body – “are always made of left-over black leather I buy. This makes the design work and stitching much more complicated. It takes much longer to choose the best left-overs. Also stitching and connecting pieces of leather which are so different from one another requires high skills and a constant development of new techniques”.
“Ecology is important to me, embedding these values into the process of making an object, but to be honest the value which is the most important for me are my personal aesthetics. Aesthetics are a means of expressing my inner truth. Being precise about aesthetics that express my point of view is something I’m not prepared to compromise on.”
After going further into this we could discuss the object Avigail exhibited in Cinderella Syndrome.
Shelley: the head piece evokes the Statue of Liberty
Avigail: I am also a painter and I was in residency for half a year in New York. I found the Statue of Liberty intriguing; on the one hand it looks like a woman, on the other hand its jaw is masculine. She is dressed in clothes that blur the silhouette of her body, so it’s even harder to tell if it’s a man or a woman.
I find gender interesting; I am driven by the philosophy behind things because all creation is strongly linked to an inner ideology. All actions have a cause, whether hidden or not.
Head over Heels; For Those Who Pray
Avigail continues: the statue’s tiara has a lot of power, it includes seven rays pointing to the seven corners of the world. The message is that liberty reaches to the every corner of the world.
In the object I designed for “Cinderella Syndrome” I echo this from my point of view as a fashion designer – the fashion message that spreads from New York outwards.
And the idea, the message I have to offer is a wide and open interpretation of Gothic aesthetics. Why open? Because it is first and foremost a matter of combinations, how does the object I designed blend into your personal style.
Above: Photographer Pavel Bolo|Makeup by Rafit Noy for MAC Cosmetics|Hair by Rafit Noy for MORROCANOIL|Model Noam Shoham
Avigail: this reminds me of an interview I read with Li Edelkoort, the trend setter, who told about a time she was invited to lecture at an office. During the meeting with the staff the people changed clothes with each other, and created new looks which were beyond trends. What really matters in fashion, and perhaps in life too, is the combination, not the trend or a specific object.
I create styles which are multi-cultural. On the one hand they look Gothic, on the other hand they look African. It is all a matter of context, with what and how do you wear, or use an object I designed. An object needs context in order to have meaning
Picture above: photographer Michael Topyol|Makeup: Rafit Noy for MAC Cosmetics|Hair :Rafit Noy for MORROCANOIL|Model Noam Shoham
Shelley: this reminds me of a quote by Rolan Barth who said that a shoe is never just a shoe. A clothing item is never only functional, because it is part of culture.
Michel Foukault said something similar about sexuality: sex doesn’t hold a hidden truth within itself, if anyone of us has a hidden, private, authentic truth relating to his or her own sexuality, then it was implanted with the help of social mechanisms
So actually all our actions are performed within a social context. To say that ‘doing’ is nothing more than the action itself is an injustice to the truth around us – the reality, culture, context.
Avigail: that’s true. My drawings of guard booths raise a question: is the guard booth at the entrance to a car park, or at the border, or at the entrance to a gaol? The booth is imbued with meaning based on its surroundings.
For a moment we leave the wider context of things, and go back to talk about the headpiece Avigail designed
At first glance from afar the object seems like a black crown to the head, but a closer look reveals the many different parts carefully stitched to transform the seven heels into a circle
Avigail: I actually create silhouettes, I see the object as a negative, not a positive. I am not busy with precious stones and diamonds which might decorate the object, but with its overall impact and relationship with the body.The seven rays create a dramatic change in the silhouette of one’s head, exactly as it does for the Statue of Liberty. This is not a decoration, but a major and meaningful change in proportions and shape.
The interview with Avigail ended and I was left in thought.
Avigail creates objects with a clear and dramatic silhouette, in the same way her choice in using only left-over black leather acts as her conceptual silhouette, to her work. She defined dark boundries, with endless beauty and depth.
And last but not least; Margiela’s Replica shoe, why is it upside down? Because it’s an answer to a small riddle, and because it makes sense here, in this contxt 🙂
Replica shoes designed by Maison Marin Margiela; resonating ideas and dreams into the present. Photo by Orit Freilich.